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Day three of Lakme Fashion Week favorites are right below. Take a looksee!
Indigene
Sailesh Singhania
Sayantan Sarkar
Urvashi Joneja
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FDCI’s India Couture Week 2017 recently wrapped up in New Delhi and that means we got a good look at the upcoming bridal trends! 😉
Celebrating its 10th edition this year, the event was everything that you would expect. Larger than life sets; sequins and shimmer; swanky venue; weighty FROW; Bollywood show stoppers; Rohit Bal’s signature floor grazers, each more voluminous than the previous and a glittery Manish Malhotra finale starring Alia Bhatt and Ranveer Singh.
Seven days, 14 designers and at least 500 looks. Read on to find out why Manav Gangwani and Rina Dhaka stole the show. Just kidding! Here are some highlights of the week that was.
THE DEPARTURE OF THE CHOLI
I was not kidding about the bridal trends and if there is one trend that is clearer now than ever, it’s that the lehnga-choli can be well on its way to an extinct combination. Worn with lehngas and saris, these new age capes, cold-shoulder blouses and trapeze tops are so forgiving. Breathe (or eat) easy, would-be brides!
ANAMIKA KHANNA’S HAPPILY EVER AFTER
Anamika Khanna opened this year’s event with an installation titled Happily Ever After at The Kila in Seven Style Mile. Segmented into Welcome Lunch, Mehndi, Cocktails and Wedding, the collection amalgamated traditional Indian techniques with a modern Indian vibe, with twist and turns that Anamika is known to pull off. Pretty pastels to fiery reds, intricate embroidery and heirloom Benarasi textile interplayed with her spectacular silhouettes… I can go on and on. In short, everything made it to my lust list.
THE SARI STORY
It’s not couture week, if you don’t spend time obsessing over saris. It wasn’t tough to narrow down my list. I love the maximalist-minimalist vibe of Rahul Mishra’s Parsi gara embroidered, organza scallop sari and I know Monisha Jaising’s sari-inspired gown will be seen on these pages soon. Gaurav Gupta’s pre-draped sexy Grecian sari was showcased in a lovely new mauve and Sabyasachi turned to his quintessential red matka. (Though he skipped India Couture Week for an Instagram reveal, you can’t ignore Sabya when talking about the sari.)
SHWETA BACHCHAN IN THAT WHITE SHIRT
Okay, can we take another moment and talk about Shweta Bachchan in that white shirt? Paired with a Manish Malhotra skirt and accessorized with a gripoix buckled Chanel belt, she worked that look. I know some of you liked it and some didn’t, personally I thought that white shirt made for quite a fashion moment and I will be taking mine out soon!
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I’ve been an early fan of Sanjay Garg’s sense and sensibility. The brightest of colors in his hands looked far from kitsch, and I love how the sari became lighter, truly easy breezy, all the while the traditional roots remaining intact. I still remember the day I bought my first two Raw Mango saris. It was pouring monsoon afternoon and the label had travelled to Calcutta for a trunk show.
It was love at first sight. An indigo-meets-aubergine diaphanous chanderi with ganga jamuna border in matte silver and bronze. “Remember not to put a fall. You will be able to wear the sari either border up, depending on your jewelry. And anyway, traditional saris don’t need a fall, only chiffon saris do.” I had made studious mental notes back then.
The second sari was rani pink with a lime green border. I wanted a signature Raw Mango, and in those days, that signature was a shot of lime green.
Though the saris and its sparrows are still untouched, Raw Mango has come a long way since. Sanjay Garg launched an eponymous label, he is coveted by all of Bollywood and he is a fashion week star, albeit a reluctant one! Excerpts from a chat…
What is the story behind the name Raw Mango?
The name means many things — I love the pungent taste of raw mango, and the contrast of flavours and color. It speaks to the idea of beauty as imperfect and unripe. No one grows up in India without knowing this taste. Also, it is like the paisley motif — present across India and not identified with one particular place.
You got a whole generation to befriend the sari. Looking back, was it a conscious effort on your part or did it happen organically?
It happened organically. Of course, I wanted to change it but I’ve been fortunate that we’ve managed to organically help shift its perception.
And for the girls out there who are still intimidated by the sari, what are some tips?
The biggest tip would be to stop thinking of it as occasion wear. It is a garment that can be worn for a number of occasions including everyday. Having fun with the blouse is an easy start — I personally like it worn with a tube top/bustier. It looks like it’s worn without a blouse and is an elegant look. Experiment with the drapes, it great scope for experimentation. I think The Sari Series will help — it is a film anthology of draping styles and will be out in the Fall. It will have over 80 films showing how one can drape a sari. I’m an advisor to the project and am very excited about the possibilities this will open up.
(Psst, speaking of ‘The Sari Series’, High Heel Confidential is an associate producer of one of the films. The passion for saris is real, like you didn’t already know that. We are very excited about the project as well!)
When we spoke last, you said you had a problem when people expect only kitsch from India. Do you think this perception is changing?
It has changed a lot, and in this lifetime. That’s quite drastic and incredible to see. Since we introduced our brocade lenghas, we’ve seen a shift with brides and families wanting to wear outfits without embroidery. The same was true when we started work in Chanderi — that aesthetic from years ago still holds strong today.
Where do you think Indian fashion is headed from a global standpoint?
We need to have much more meaningful understanding within India first, rather than the world. I think we are far away from making any kind of meaningful impact. The Japanese brought their wabi sabi aesthetic to the world. We need to first see what India can bring to the table. I don’t believe it is only textiles, and I think many of us are working towards this pursuit.
What prompted you to launch the Sanjay Garg brand? How is it different from the Raw Mango label?
Raw Mango is a sari brand, and Sanjay Garg is our line of garments (lenghas, dresses, coats and separates). The DNA is the same, the textile development process is as involved, however, the intention behind Sanjay Garg was to give occasion wear options to women when they were not wearing a sari.
Which 5 traditional weaves must every woman have in her collection?
There is nothing called ‘must’ but if you ask me, my favorites are Chanderi, Benaresi, Mashru, Jamdani and Kanjeevaram.
Finally, what’s a Sanjay-approved finishing touch to a Raw Mango look?
No jewelry and minimal make-up. I love how women naturally look.
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For a recent round of movie promotions, Kriti picked a Rahul Mishra mini to wear. With her hair in a braid, she rounded out the look with Alberto Torresi sneakers. She wore the dress well.
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Kriti Sanon At Raabta Promotions
Photo Credit: Viral Bhayani
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Exactly six years ago, I had asked Rahul Mishra where he wants to see his label 10 seasons on. “It is my dream to be the best ‘handmade in India’ label in the world. Right now India is the place to be so I am in no rush to go overseas but eventually I definitely see a stronger international presence.” Talent, ambition, prophecy or dream and in his case, a combination of it all, Rahul Mishra made this one come true.
Born and raised in Kanpur’s Malhausi, he went on to become the first Indian to win the International Woolmark Prize in 2014 and is now a regular at Paris Fashion Week. His last collection, Infinity, received rave reviews and Rahul is trying not to bask in the glorious reviews. (His humility is almost as well known as his poetic philosophy). He spoke to HHC from his home in Noida:
FIVE FACTS
DoB: 7 November 1979
Education: Dr. Veerendra Swaroop Education Center, Kanpur University, NID, Istituto Marangoni Milan
First piece designed: A crisp white shirt, for himself.
Turning point of career: Kerala Mundu Classroom Project at NID. “It helped me develop my language as a designer.”
Currently reading: “I don’t read but I watch a lot of docu-series on Netflix. Right now I’m watching Genius.”
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Pointillism found its way to the Rahul Mishra atelier for Infinity, his recent PFW collection, after an inspiring night spent at the Pompidou soaking in Van Gogh and Paul Signac
How did your early years influence the person you are today and how did you end up in fashion?
I grew up in a small village called Malhausi in western Uttar Pradesh. My childhood was beautiful, surrounded by nature to the extent that you are almost communicating with the animals and trees! That life shaped my being and the way I am today. I actually ended up in fashion almost by accident! I wanted to be an artist or a filmmaker and gave entrance exams to various colleges. I got through NID (The National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad) and as a science graduate, the only course I was qualified to study was apparel design. NID initiated a process of learning and observing things around me that continued to stay with me — I learn something every day! It could be from a garment, a collection, some feedback, a sale, or a mistake… It’s the learning that keeps me motivated.
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Legendary journalist Suzy Menkes went backstage before the Paris show to get up close with the pieces. Suzy later said she was privileged to have gone backstage to appreciate the extraordinary elements of Rahul’s craft
What is the difference in the design process when you are showcasing at PFW vis-à-vis fashion week in India?
We have to approach the two very differently. For Paris, it has to be a collection that has evolved from the previous (collection). So, while design-wise we look for inspiration from the past, it’s also about dreaming and sharing that dream with everybody in the team, right from the embroiders to the designers. Separates are usually top-sellers and the runway looks are created by my stylist. In India, we showcase our couture line — mostly bridal and occasion wear. We have to think about the entire look, from head-to-toe. The entire outfit is decided in-house and the design process is based on that image.
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In this hashtag-driven world, Rahul Mishra would pick “#HandmadeLuxury” to describe the DNA of his brand
What kind of pressure does the ‘Made in India’ tag bring with it?
There’s an inherent strength when you talk about ‘Made in India’ because of the beautiful handmade craft and culture that we have to offer but unfortunately, due to the rise of fast fashion, India is often associated with mass production and cheap labour. This mindset often poses as an obstacle but things are changing slowly. The biggest fashion houses in the world produce their hand embroideries in India and it’s sad that they don’t carry the ‘Made in India’ label. I think it’s time to fix that.
