Seeing Double!

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One of our readers, Aria, tipped us off about this Jovani gold gown. Now, if you’re fashion fan, you know that the gold gown is quite an exact replica of the Gaurav Gupta design seen most recently on Deepika.

Jovani and many other labels indulge in this practice: taking an original, adding a few tweaks and selling it for cheaper. But, this is probably one of the few where the replica isn’t an inspiration.

Imitation may be the best form of flattery but when it comes to this business, we’ll tell you, we aren’t fans of such practice. Not one bit. Same goes for some of the desi designers who rip off international designs with teeny tweaks and pass ’em off as their own.

What’s your stand on this? Would you knowingly buy a replica/inspired outfit because it’s cheaper? Am not talking high-street brands here…

deepika-gaurav-gupta-jovani-knockoff

Left & Center: Gaurav Gupta
Right: Jovani

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64 Comments

  1. You’re kidding right? Forever 21, H&M and Asos made empires out of “inspired” clothing. This shouldn’t ruffle anyone’s feathers.

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    • +1000.. And boy are we forgetting ZARA and most of our upcoming desi designers. I could quote a few of these ‘inspirations’ in the Filmfare event itself!

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  2. Many people cannot afford multiple Sabyasachi, Payal Singhal, Manish Malhotra, Chloe, Christian Louboutin, etc.; nor do they have the option of renting. I can talk for myself. All I have is one Sabya, one Payal Singhal, one Manish Arora, one Surendri, and few Masaba. So, these “inspired” items are definitely tempting!

    Had I liked the Gaurav Gupta golden gown and then spotted this golden gown in Jovani, I would have purchased it … because I would have worn this gown at most once or twice in my lifetime (we don’t tend to repeat special occasion dresses, and then fashion changes over time) and hence paying an additional 500 bucks seems impractical.

    From what I know, the Bollywood celebs do not buy many of these clothes that they wear. They either rent it for the occasion or get to wear it for free (like a model promoting the designer’s collection and design). This is perfect!! But what about us? Our regular visit to your blog indicates our love for fashion and our interest to keep up with the latest and our desire to imbibe the trends. However, we do not have access to many of what we see in this blog … either because it’s extremely expensive or because it is exclusive or because it is not available for renting (forget the free part). Thus, we fall for options like Jovani.

    Judge me wrong, declare me guilty 🙂

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  3. First and foremost, Deepika looks like she’s 100% wearing Jovani or it’s that great of a rip off. But who would rip off an indian designer, when 99% of them are rip offs? Just saying. If Jovani can do this and make it 100% then Jovani ftw. I could wear and Kenneth cole top and say it’s Rohit + Raul.

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  4. I personally don’t think you can avoid talking about high-street brands here, because that’s precisely what they do. Those 3.1 Philip Lim ‘inspired’ bags at Zara? The studded shoes a-la Valentino by Steve Madden? Every bride that’s ever taken a magazine cut-out of a zillion-lakh Sabyasachi and had her tailor knock it up? We’ve all brought things that are essentially rip-offs of high-end designers. It’s unfortunate, but in the end, if you can buy something remarkably similar for far less, why wouldn’t you?

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  5. The canary yellow Swapnil Shinde gown that Evelyn Sharma wore to the Filmfare Awards is an exact copy of red Celia Kritharioti gown that Kim Kardashian wore to Elton John’s Oscar 2014 party. Why haven’t you guys called the Indian designer out on replicating someone else’s work and passing it off as their own?

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  6. It happens and is here to stay. Lot of clothes that even we, the aam aadmi get are probably inspired with us buyers, often not having a clue of its origins!

    With the biggest of desi brands paying less than minimum wages to the poor tailer, the inspired tailor gets the last laugh I guess. Circle of life!

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  7. If I were to purchase my wedding lehenga and have only Rs 25000, I will absolutely buy a lehenga that looks gorgeous, even if I realize that its a replica of a Manish Malhotra or Sabyasachi, something I can never afford at the 5 lakh tag they charge. You might ask me – then why not go for something else. Unfortunately the other clothes at 25k will probably not be as appealing as the replica – would i spend that much and go with a dull looking outfit, or would human nature automatically gravitate towards the better looking dress?

    Unless the original brand prices are more affordable to the middle income group, especially for clothes that can be very easily replicated this will continue to happen always. Ofcourse for thinsg like Abu Jani or other very superior workmanship and materials they use that cannot be replicated, the price is fair when its that cheap.

    I am not saying that everyone is this way, but a lot of people think the same way.

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  8. While this is bad it isn’t surprising. In the past everyone has seen some of our so called famous designers like Gauri and Nainika, Shehla Khan and so many others copying international designers and passing them as their own. Who can forget Shehla Khan ripping off the famous Zuhair Murad.

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  9. If we had a legal system that might actually help punish those who plagiarize ideas and work, this would be happening a lot less. Ideally, people should have principles, integrity and a decent work ethic, but it’s a bit naive to expect that, especially when most examples are to the contrary. Protection of intellectual property and penalizing plagiarism are not given the importance they are due, at least in India.

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  10. So when Sonam tries to copy the Hollywood celebs through her ensembles and is hailed as some fashionista in India (she anyways has a very poor opinion of Indians, dunno WHY), that is okay with you? And you girls seem to love sonam like anything!!

    Pls be fair HHC. People copying someone else is downright cheap, but the reality is.. leave aside Jovani or Falani.. I know people who copy the ensembles of these stars by getting the same-patterned fabric (which is almost close to the one worn by the star) and then getting it stitched. There are some outstanding tailors out there (actually designers to put it in a polished way) who stitch the replica of the attires worn by stars but ofcourse that is ON REQUEST of the CLIENT. They don’t stitch it and then sell it! Trust me, there are oodles of such professional & marvelous designers. That is a form of copy too!!!!! Ultimately the original piece bears the name of the designer (like Dip’s golden dress has Gupta’s name) and as long as that retains & sustains, I don’t mind such a practice.

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  11. Its a good cause. Making fashion available to those who can’t afford it. I don’t see any harm. if you have the money buy the original, if you don’t buy the fake :)Some people don’t want a great quality long lasting outfit or bag till the time it looks trendy. Where there is a market, there will be sellers. I don’t see any harm in this. On a side note, P&P i think you guys should venture into something bigger like start a label, or become a stylist for an actor. Seems like the appropriate next step especially with so many blogs popping up with similar material (read pinkvilla which suddenly decided to venture into fashion along with bollywood gossip :))

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  12. I would!! Not everybody can afford designer tags!! Unlike the US where there are levels of affordability, indian designer wear is just straight up overpriced!!

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    • Absolutely agree!!! Indian designers’ (excluding ofcourse Sabyasachi) designs are copy of some western designers and ofcourse like you said are overpriced.

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  13. Why spare high street brands? Why is it ok buying copied/inspired clothing from them?
    I completely agree that a lot of effort goes into creating original designs but when designers put a heavy price tag on their designs, it limits the number of people who can actually enjoy them. Why limit creative and innovative style to just a certain set of people. And we’ve all seen, a lot of money does not guarantee good taste. And just because one does not have a lot of money, it does not mean that one cannot wear the latest fashion.
    P.S: my personal style is very basic but it’s really good to see people experiment(even if they are wearing copied/inspired stuff). After all, fashion is a way of self expression 🙂

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  14. Absolutely.. I mean I don’t see anything wrong and I would totally buy the cheaper version. . Especially of such gowns that you may get to wear only once in a blue moon

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  15. But what’s the difference? Aren’t high street brands, or for that matter,even clothes we buy at Target – are they not ALL “inspired” and sometimes copied exactly from high end designers.
    Not sure exactly which part of this you are upset about?

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  16. I think there’s a HUGE amount of race / xenophobia issues here. We see everywhere fashion or home decor that looks India inspired, with designers making millions of $$ off of overpriced shoddily produced things pretty openly saying “inspired by an authentic Indian design from the Eastern state of Orissa”, or “Navajo chief’s blanket” or whatever. Just because that nameless Orissa weaver doesn’t have a logo and a brand name and a marketing budget and a showroom on fifth ave, or hasn’t enforced copyright or has no visibility into how much money she /he is being thugged out of, doesn’t mean that that is not plagiarism.

    But this is Gaurav Gupta, so I really hope he sues Jovani, considering they’re a HUGE New York based retailer and can be held accountable. It’s unlikely he’ll win, but at least it’s worth a try.

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    • appreciate your comment a lot. though, a slight departure from your second point; i dont know what the price difference between the original and the knock off is, but i don’t really think either is eating into the other’s market. those who can buy the original (if g gupta has been doing a good job of publicizing ) will not be caught dead with the fake, and those who can’t, well they’d anyway only be looking at the original in these pages 😛
      besides, those bangkok markets and the like exist because of this phenomenon.

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  17. Time to get off that high horse P&P…

    Wasn’t it Sabyasachi who said something to likes of not being bothered that folks copy his designs because it encourages the revival of certain workmanship/craftsmanship? That. That is humility right there.

    The reality is, nothing is purely original. Everything is inspired by something… so to say you “aren’t fans of such practice” is just hilarious.

    I do think designer-wear is more affordable in the US given we get more opportunities for sales, outlets, etc. Just bought a pair of sparkly Jimmy Choos for $300…won’t see that in India!

    The more affluent folks are going to keep purchasing the real things, and the upper/middle class folks will continue to purchase copies. At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter.

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  18. Replicas are here to stay- refer to comments above. What I have a problem with is every neighborhood plagiarist calling themselves a “designer.” Creativity be damned- as long as you can copy a big name couturier, you can call yourself a designer.

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  19. And why ARE you excusing high-street brands from being “inspired” by higher-end styles?! It is the same concept!

    You have a problem with well-known designers being imitated and the imitations being sold for cheaper. Do you also have a problem with well-known designers feeling inspired by some small-town darzis? Cue in Dia Mirza’s probably expensive sari (https://www.highheelconfidential.com/sari-style-dia-mirza-at-paanch-adhyay-screening-mumbai-film-festival-2012/#comments) probably inspired by someone not-a-big-shot. Imitation IS a form of flattery…and it exists in every direction.

    Of course that time Manish Malhotra “felt inspired” by Dior’s Floral Finesse (Summer 2014) was pathetic…

    But yes, I’d buy beautiful clothes that catch my eye (and that I can afford!) regardless of their story.

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    • I have been searching for your comments lately on HHC. WHY???? May be because I always can imagine you saying all these things with your boss like attitude. :p

      P.S. I totally agree with you.

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  20. Ok correct me if I am wrong but the point that HHC is trying to make here is not whether u would buy a fake or a replica but is it ok for a label to copy an original design and call it their own! My take is that it’s not OK for Jovani to call a Gaurav gupta design as their own…that’s plagiarism. Zara, H&M and other brand sdont call anything as their in house designs..all are inspired. So there!

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  21. These designers, irrespective of their talent, keep charging a bomb and forget the fact that whether they target MIG group or not, people will get similar stuff somehow. We all saw most of bollywood wearing crop tops ranging from ASOS and koovs to McQueen. Now the question is, did half the Delhi girls try those? Yes, did they all buy designer? Hell no. If only there were more designers making this transition smooth and targeting the masses and not the classes, everybody knows they can afford a designer piece. Its like a bloody cartel system of clothes where if u have a limited budget and cant compromise on the product, u go to another underground market. I bet there are many here who can say that they saw and fabulous H&M dress in sarojini for 500 and let it pass.

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  22. I am sure you have done some fact check P&P to be very sure that its Jovani that copied Gaurav Gupta and not the other way round? The Jovani costs upwards of $4000 so cheaper is not the point here.
    One ‘Lady Victoria Hervey’ wore this same black dress to the 2014 Golden Globes(you guys don’t allow external links so cannot post it here) but do the search. It is the exact same gown that GG presented on the runway.. no change at all!! I am not sure if she is wearing GG or Jovani, but what are the odds that GG might have passed this gown as his own design. I would love to find out who copied whom here!!

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    • Akaa, the pewter bugle beads dress that Lady Victoria Hervey wore was an original Gaurav Gupta outfit, designed by himself as a part of his Couture 2013 Collection. Deepika is wearing the gold and a covered version of the same outfit. Please do your research better next time.

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  23. Chicken or the egg story? Jovani is a high priced brand as well, so not sure where the original inspiration came from…err, Cleopatra should be suing if nothing else!

    On an aside, this Sabya outfit costs a cool $2895 if you buy the original on a legaly franchised online site
    https://www.highheelconfidential.com/deepika-padukone-in-sabyasachi-at-ramleelas-trailerfirst-look-launch/#comments

    Versus a paltry 4% at Rs 6999 at a replica website that seems do do an awful good job.
    If I were a poor bride and am completely smitten with the glorified mosquito net of a saree (I know its fashion sacrilege, and I do love Sabya – about 70% of the time) But call a spade a (kate)spade, this is a very average and awfully overpriced creation from his house!!! so thanks but no thanks! I will pay the 4% and use the rest for my dream house down payment!

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  24. I do photography and unless I put a nasty watermark it does get stolen. I wouldn’t mind some random person using it as a wallpaper for their phone background but if someone starts selling it as a print for big bucks I would be pissed. Theft is theft and for big buck replicas (and not bored aunty with a tailor) it should be treated with the same disdain as one would reserve for someone who steals some poor guy’s vespa.

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  25. Yes I would knowingly buy a replica/inspired outfit/jewelry because its cheaper and I have done so in the past and probably will continue doing it. Because the original design is so expensive that it is beyond reach of a common person like me.

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  26. P& P- ‘inspired’ is different from ‘fakes’. WHile designers of the same price rangle caliber ( Manav ganwani & say manish malhotra) copying or taking ‘inspirations’ from each others designs is not correct- coz that is lying. that is saying ‘this is my original design’ while its not. But a high streeet brand creating high end inspired clothes or bags is obviously and absolutely ok! The fact that you would think that it shouldnt be ok ( I know you dint say it but an implication was definitely made) is meaningless. Thats like saying either people should be prepared to shell out tons of money or if they cant afford it, then they shouldnt be allowed to like a particular design and wear a version of it that they can afford. Its also against capitalism. Capitilism works on the basis of a market need- if there is a need, there will be a provider as there should.

    now buying a ‘fake’ is a whole another story. Buying a ‘fake’ designer bag from chinatown to me is tacky and just indicative of a ‘wannabe ‘ mentality. that I am against.

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  27. Without any judgement based on morals and from a pure luxury marketing point of view, counterfeits and copies actually increase the brand equity of the original. It is debatable but there is an increasing amount of research that says so. (I’m reading a particularly dull one at the moment, so I had to comment. Sorry.)

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  28. Wow, everybody is defending this as they can only afford the ‘inspired’ ones. People – we all have things we want but cannot afford(atleast 99% of us), just because we want something do we steal it. And then inspired is okay fake is not – so what degree of stealing is okay.
    All that being said, one thing here is mostly original and inspired cater to different customers so original designer might not be as impacted. And sometimes customers don’t even realize it is copied.

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  29. This thread would have been extremely funny only if it was not so sad. Are people really backing copying? Guys/ Gals, implications of such copying are many and not pretty. Broaden your horizons and read up on how fakes fund terrorism, and stop this menace. Read up an NY Times article on this or a book called Black Market Billions, you would need to rethink the choices you may be making.
    I am sure people here don’t support buying outright fakes, but supporting inspired copies is dangerously close and uses same justifications.
    Think, people, think!

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    • Dark_one, where do you shop, out of interest? I am very aware of what you’re saying, but quite seriously, where do you buy your clothes? I find it near-impossible to purchase anything that isn’t inspired these days, so I’m genuinely curious. Would you say you have nothing in your wardrobe (bags, shoes, clothes, jewellery, make-up) that has not been ‘inspired’ by a more ‘designer’ brand?

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      • Lolita, if you are very aware of what I’m saying as you mention above, then I need not answer your question. Because if you have researched on this topic or sat through the debates on this subject or read this book, then you would know it all, where to shop, and which places to avoid like plague.
        Nonetheless, let me sum it up by saying where I don’t buy. I don’t buy from street shops which sell “branded” goods, I don’t buy from “export surplus” stores, I don’t buy from stores which sell designer goods at a bargain, I don’t buy knock offs of any thing like sun glasses, bags, jewellery, etc. I don’t buy pirated movies, I don’t download stolen music, and I didn’t buy THIS book (or any other) off the road, or downloaded a pirated pdf, etc. Hope you get the drift. It makes it easier for me, coz I am a person of no real taste, I don’t pride in dressing well, or having the most fashionable accessories. Nonetheless, I do enjoy watching people dress up, and hence drop by this website.
        But I am sure, people with impeccable tastes (and unfortunately a pauper like me) can also live by ethically shopping, after all, we are the choices we make.
        Ohh, BTW, I live in HK, and have markets full of Chinese fakes every few steps, and it has never been a problem to overlook these. Between the Lane Crawfords and the dingy lane markets, there are some mediocre shops here that cater to likes of mine.

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      • Lolita, and I am sorry if my comment came across as a mean snide remark. I am bit upset with the rest of the replies here and people jumping up and down defending their choices of buying replicas because they are affordable. But the steam was totally misdirected on you unfortunately, my apologies. You seem to be someone who cares about the consequences.

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        • Hi there Dark_one
          Yes I commend the stand you take – and it’s a brave one. And I really do believe ‘Lolita’ was asking a sincere question, because the issue of avoiding copies and plagiarisms also throws up important debates on what, if anything, is a kosher option- for those who love the element of design and creativity in high end labels, and might aspire to the same but are frustrated by virtue of being ‘paupers’ like your me. Do share some more insights from this book (i’m well on my way to ordering one) and thank you for broadening the horizon of this debate..cheers. x

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        • Ah you live in HK, that also sort of partly explains the over abundance of inspired designer goods and you are probably maxed with this so much that you’s rather buy something offbeat and original which doesnt need to be priced sky high.

          I think geography plays a fairly important role here

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  30. In an ideal world, we would have stronger copyright laws and our courts would be able to swiftly take care of such blatant infringements. Anyway, reality is that cheaper brands/high street often make money off knock offs and I think the fashion industry has more or less accepted that because as someone said above they cater to different customers and the litigation is not worth it perhaps and probably counterproductive.
    From the comments above though, I’m not sure but it seems like Jovani clothes are also considered high end and expensive? So they are probably unfairly eating into Gaurav Gupta’s market share. If I were him, I’d at least get my lawyers to send them a nasty letter. If nothing else, he may be able to get more attention to his line overseas.

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  31. So finally an indian designer whose work is getting plagiarized. Wonder how he feels about it 🙂
    I think there are two issues at play –
    1. Is it wrong to buy an “inspired” or plagiarized design for less? Obviously not, as long as it is not being pawned off as one’s original design. No average working person can afford to buy only designer clothing. If there is something out there that looks similar but sells for less anyone would be tempted.
    2. Is it wrong for an independent designer to copy another designer’s work and make profit from it? Absolutely. If you are selling something with your label and charging an arm and a leg for it then it better be worth it right? There has to be pride of ownership, creativity, thought process. When you are buying a designer label, you are paying 95% of the cost for the creative effort that went into making that product. If that 95% is borrowed then what is the product worth? That is when I feel cheated and ashamed. This is true for so many so called designers in India who have made tons of money selling other designers creations and continue to do so shamelessly. And why clothes, what about music, movies, shows. We thrive on borrowed creativity. We are like this only…

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  32. Very interesting discussion. Since most people are ok with paying less for knock-offs, as is fair to not to be able to splurge on everything. There are total rip-offs , tweaked inspirations being sold at the same prices. Sadly, consumers are not & cannot always be aware of who came first. So while high street brands are subsidising rates via mass production, the sad part of the plagiarism story is the designers who replicate others and sell at designer prices + their own label. This is just a view with no resolution, all designers who care can do is keep creating as they have, and release it…

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  33. As Meryl Streep said brilliantly, in The Devil wears Prada, about the way in which high fashion trickles down to the common man, via inspired pieces by Zara, Asos and others of their kind: I’m pretty sure that as long as they are a season late, and just ‘inspired’, designers are actually quite aware of the phenomenon, and probaby use it as an indication of how ‘influential’ they are. But this is a direct knock-off, which is wrong, esp. if you are trying to make money off it. One person, getting things copied by their local darzi, for their own personal use (while probably still wrong) is different from a huge retail conglomerate selling exact copies for (still a lot of!) money. On a side note, I have seen a similar gown on Yolanda Foster in a magasine shoot and Lady Victoria Hervey at the Chopard Mystere party in ’12. Are they also Gaurav Gupta?

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  34. Has anyone here realised that Jovani might have bought the design from GG?
    Like Anthropology sources their stuff from designers around the world…even our indian designers… and sell under anthropology.
    Its very likely, especially looking at Jovani’s price tag that they are actually sourcing it from GG .
    All this discussion could just be a misinterpretation.
    Just think about it! 😉

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    • No Anika, Jovani has ripped off the dress from Gaurav Gupta. Why do you think such a big retailer has blocked Indian ISPs from accessing their website.
      I can assure you a legal notice will be served to Jovani by GG.

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  35. Pretty sure Gaurav Gupta copied the gown. Has anyone else noticed how he has blatantly ripped off designer Tisha Saksena’s draped designs in the past too?
    You should then do an article on that too P&P.

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    • Unfortunately, we don’t know the timing of which came first here so can’t quite comment on that. When it comes to the Pernia site, even though an inventory is posted later on, doesn’t seem the designer didn’t have it already. Case in point, one of the Nachiket sari with the floral border is about two three years old.

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      • C’mon everyone knows Gaurav Gupta copied Designer Tisha Saksena’s draped suit. It’s not really a secret. I bought my first draped suit in 2012 from her first collection. So if you are suggesting Gaurav had come out with the draped design before 2012 and Pernia didn’t put it up all this while, and Gaurav was okay with that, is kind of a far fetched story.

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  36. Tisha Saksenas drape was first seen on Pernia’s site and on celebrities on your blog in 2012. Whereas Gaurav Gupta’s drape was first ever seen on Pernias website in 2014 and it wasn’t stocked at his store either. So if his drape wasn’t even seen anywhere how could it have come first and been copied by Tisha?

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